August 7, 2018 9:17 pm

Ride the Big Waves with Chuck, Gary, Bill Patzert, and Pro Surfer Paige Alms

Oh, August – the scorching heat, the unbearable humidity, and the end of summer fast approaching. With only a few weeks left in the summer, why not hit the waves and try and ride the curl? However, before you do that, you might want to brush up on your surfing science.

On this week’s episode of Playing with Science, we re-visit Surf’s Up – The Big Waves where hosts Gary O’Reilly and Chuck Nice dive into the science of surfing. To help them stand up straight, they’re joined by surfer and NASA oceanographer Bill Patzert and the first female Big Wave world champion, Paige Alms.

To start, you’ll find out how NASA can predict surfing conditions almost a week in advance. Then, Bill discusses how three factors generate big waves: storm duration, wind strength, and storm fetch (area). You’ll also hear how unique topographical conditions, like coral reefs and canyons, can help create monster waves.

Next, we focus on the person doing the work. You’ll explore how a surfer constantly changes their center of gravity riding waves while immediate danger follows them at every second. Then, we hear from Paige on what it feels like to be the first female to barrel at Jaws.

We also talk to Paige about the design and creation of her boards and how a shorter, wider design allows her to use the rail line of the board to knife through the water at high speeds, applying the techniques of small wave technical surfing to big wave riding.

Paige shares the dangers of wiping out on such massive waves. Plus, you’ll learn why physics don’t allow you to “surf a tsunami” and Chuck, no surprise, gets excited about “wave sex”.

Please join us tomorrow night for Surf’s Up – The Big Waves (Repeat) right here on our website, as well as on our Playing with Science channels on Apple Podcasts, Google Play Music, SoundCloud, Stitcher, and TuneIn. If you’re an All-Access subscriber, you can watch or listen to this episode ad-free.

That’s it for now. Keep Looking Up!
–Ian Mullen